This installation was for a typical 1/2 bathroom layout with the toilet located next to a vanity sink. In cases where the bathroom is located over a basement, the most straightforward routing for power and air exhaust is typically down into the basement space where access to sanitary plumbing pipes and electrical power is more easily accessible. However, for bathrooms built over a concrete slab or in multi-level apartment buildings the only viable method for air exhaust is likely through a sink drain pipe vent connection.
For a vanity sink installation, the most challenging aspect will usually be how to provide power for the Potty Sniffer system. Fortunately, in most bathrooms with a vanity, a power outlet is normally installed on a wall next to the sink that can be used as an electrical source for a new electrical outlet. The new outlet will be located inside of the vanity cabinet directly beneath the existing outlet.
Using a stud finder, the first step is to examine the layout of the wall framing behind the existing outlet and to confirm that there is an unobstructed path down to the planned location of the new outlet. Confirm with a non-contact voltage detector that there are no electrical wires behind the cabinet wall where the new outlet will be cut out. An “old work” style electrical box was used for the new outlet and the required cutout was marked on the inside wall of the vanity cabinet. Before continuing to the next step, electrical power to the outlet was shut off at the main electrical panel and the work zone verified with the non-contact voltage detector to confirm that power had been cut. Starter holes were drilled at each corner of the outlet box layout and the cutout process completed using a reciprocating saw. Since the distance was short, the new electrical cord could be fed by hand from the existing electrical box to the new outlet location. At this point, the new electrical box can be installed into the cutout and all electrical connections completed.
It is important to note that if you do not have the necessary experience to safely perform the required electrical work, you should enlist the help of a qualified professional.
Once the new outlet was installed, the next step was to route the air and electrical cord into the vanity. This bathroom layout incorporates a functional countertop extension over the toilet tank. Because of this feature, the most inconspicuous location for the vanity side access holes (for air exhaust and electrical cord) was across the underside of the countertop extension where the routed lines could be fully concealed.
For this model of toilet, the tank air vent port was incorporated into the underside of the tank lid rather than at a location across the back of the toilet tank. While the tank lid spacers that were included with the Potty Sniffer kit could have been used to provide a pass-through gap for the tubing and electrical cord, instead, a small cutout was made in the back wall of tank to address the condition. This also allowed for the lid to sit normally across the top of the tank and keep it from contacting the underside of the countertop extension when re-installed. To make the cutout, a rotary tool with a diamond cutting wheel was used to perform two full depth cuts (about 3/8″ deep) for the sides of the cutout and a partial depth cut (>50% thickness) across the bottom edge of the cutout. Once properly cut and scored, the small porcelain tab was struck with a punch and hammer to break it off from the tank wall and leaving the desired gap. Additional cuts with the diamond wheel or making a deeper V shaped notch to avoid the “tap and break” operation are strategies that can be used to reduce the risk of damage to the tank.
A sink drain vent saddle connection kit was installed for air exhaust for this installation. To make things easier, the pipe section immediately after the P-trap was removed to allow for the vent saddle to be installed without needing to perform the work beneath the sink. This can be done by unscrewing the two screw collars on each end of the pipe section, which should only be hand tight in most cases. You will also need to do this if there is not enough clearance for a portable drill and drill bit to fit between the underside of the sink and top portion of the pipe. Dry fit the top portion of the vent saddle fitting and mark for location making sure it is clear of the sink drain plug actuator arm. A 3/8″ hole was drilled into the top side of the pipe and the vent saddle (with saddle sealing gasket) installed before returning the finished assembly to the sink drain for re-mounting.